Mikro Sesi: the beach that feels like a Greek island — car access only

Mikro Sesi at a glance

Mikro Sesi sits on the northeastern coast of Attica, facing the South Evoikos Gulf, just past the village of Grammatiko in the Municipality of Marathon. It's the smaller of two sister coves — (Megalo) Sesi and Mikro Sesi — tucked into a bay closed off on one side by a rocky hill. Across the water you can see Evia, and that's exactly what gives the place its island feel: the sea here isn't the wide-open Saronic of the Riviera, it's a narrow, deep-blue channel between two coastlines.

It's a free, unorganised beach — no entrance fee, no rows of sunbeds. What you get is entirely natural: fine pebbles and coarse sand, tamarisk trees for shade, and a small taverna-canteen. A lifeguard is on duty in summer.

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Mikro Sesi — photos from the beach

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Why it feels like an island beach

The first impression, as you come down the dirt track and the bay opens up in front of you, is that somehow you've ended up on Kea or Andros by mistake. The water is unbelievably clear: turquoise over the pebbles near the shore, turning deep blue just a few metres out. Because the seabed is rock rather than mud, it doesn't cloud up even with people swimming — and because there's no river or sewage-connected settlement nearby, it stays clear all summer.

The second thing that makes the difference is the shade. The tamarisk trees genuinely reach the waterline, so you can lay your towel under a tree without needing an umbrella — something you'd pay handsomely for at the organised beach clubs on the Riviera. The third is the rocky hill that closes off the end of the beach: climb up a little (with proper shoes) and you get a view over the whole Evoikos Gulf, Megalo Sesi next door, and the mountains of Evia across the water.

And the fourth thing, the hardest to describe, is the quiet. On a weekday in June or September, all you hear is the pebbles rolling with the waves and the cicadas in the trees. No beach bar blasting music, no one hawking sunbeds.

Pebbles, seabed and swimming — what to expect

The shore is fine pebble mixed with coarse sand. It's very clean — it doesn't stick to you like sand does, and it doesn't end up all over your bag — but anyone not used to it will find it hard on bare feet, especially going in and out of the water. The fix is simple: water shoes, or at least flip-flops you can slip off at the last moment.

The seabed deepens steadily but gently — it's not the endless shallow stretch you'd find at Voula, but it doesn't drop off suddenly either. Kids play comfortably in the first few metres, and adults only need a few strokes to reach clear, deep water. If you have a snorkel mask, bring it: near the hill there are rocks with fish, and visibility runs to several metres.

🍽️ The taverna-canteen: island-style food, old-school prices

In the middle of the beach, under the trees, there's a little wooden shack that's somewhere between a taverna and a beach canteen. It has a paved courtyard with a few shaded tables, a fridge stocked with ice creams, and a counter that turns out coffees, ice-cold beers, toasted sandwiches and, at lunchtime, proper food: meze, fried potatoes, salads, grilled dishes and whatever fish is available that day.

What makes it special is that it's genuinely cheap. The prices have nothing to do with the beach bars on the Riviera — they're village-taverna prices: coffee and beer at rates you can't find in central Athens anymore, and a full lunch for two with a drink at a very reasonable cost. I won't quote exact prices because they change every season, but go without worry: you won't get ripped off here.

Two practical notes: first, bring cash — it's a small shack in a remote spot, and you shouldn't count on a card reader. Second, it only operates in the summer season (roughly May–September) — outside that window don't expect to find it open, so bring whatever you need.

Car access only — why we say it so plainly

On this blog we love the metro and the tram, and we've written you detailed guides to beaches you can reach for €1.20. Mikro Sesi isn't one of them. The nearest bus stops in Grammatiko, several uphill-downhill kilometres before the beach, with very few departures — not a realistic option for a swim. A taxi from the centre for a round trip costs about as much as renting a car for two days.

So: if you don't have a car, Mikro Sesi isn't for today. If you're weighing up a rental, read our guide on when renting a car in Athens is actually worth it first — a day combining Mikro Sesi, Marathon and Schinias is exactly the kind of trip where it pays off.

The route from Ioulianou 50 — step by step

The drive is roughly 51 kilometres and takes 1 hour and 10 minutes with no traffic — allow up to 1 hour 30 on a weekend morning or during rush hour. Most of it is on the national highway, the final stretch is a quiet, winding country road, and the very end is a few hundred metres of passable dirt track that any regular car can handle.

Step 1 — From Ioulianou 50 to the national highway (20–25 minutes)

From Victoria, head out onto Patission going north, continue onto Acharnon / Irakliou Avenue, and join the Athens–Lamia National Highway (A1) heading towards Lamia. Alternatively, if your GPS suggests Kifisias → Attiki Odos → National Highway, follow it — it's slightly longer but often faster.

Step 2 — National highway to the "Kapandriti" exit (25 minutes)

Stay on the A1 towards Lamia, passing Metamorfosi, Kifisia and Agios Stefanos. Take the Kapandriti / Grammatiko exit. Note: there are tolls at Afidnes (a few euros, cards accepted).

Step 3 — Kapandriti → Grammatiko → Sesi (20–25 minutes)

From the exit, follow the signs for Kapandriti and then Grammatiko. The road winds through pine forests and olive groves — it's the prettiest stretch of the whole route, full of curves, so take it easy. In Grammatiko, follow the "Sesi" signs: the road descends towards the sea with views over the Evoikos Gulf.

Step 4 — Sesi → Mikro Sesi (5 minutes, dirt track)

Just before you reach the village of Sesi, there's a turn-off for Mikro Sesi (on the left, following the coast to the west). The road becomes a dirt track for a few hundred metres, passable for any car with a bit of care around the potholes. It ends in an informal parking area among the trees, just metres from the water. Parking is free but limited — one more reason to arrive early and on a weekday.

⚠️ Avoid the weekend

I'll be blunt, because I've seen it ruin people's day: Mikro Sesi is small. It's exactly what the name says. On weekdays that's its whole charm — a handful of families, a few locals from Grammatiko, and quiet. On weekends in July and August, though, the entire northern suburbs discover it: the car park fills up before 10:30am, cars line the dirt track, towels go down side by side under every tamarisk tree, and the canteen can't keep up.

It's no longer the island-like beach I've described above — it's a very beautiful but crowded beach, with an hour's drive to get back. So:

• Go on a weekday — Tuesday to Thursday is ideal.
• If weekend is your only option: leave Ioulianou before 8am so you're there by 9:30, and consider heading back after lunch, right as the crowds start rolling in.
• Or go late afternoon (5pm onwards): the crowds thin out, the light turns golden, and the sunset behind the hill is the best part of the day.
• June and September are the perfect months: warm sea, few people, canteen open.

What to bring — the checklist

1. Water shoes — the pebbles don't forgive.
2. Beach towel or a straw mat — there are no sunbeds. (And please, not the apartment's white towels 🙏.)
3. Umbrella — optional. Arrive early and you'll get a tree; if not, a small umbrella saves the day.
4. Water — at least 1.5 litres per person. The canteen sells it, but don't rely on it alone.
5. Cash — for the canteen and the tolls, just to be safe.
6. Mask and snorkel — the water earns it.
7. Sunscreen and a hat — pebbles reflect sun more than sand does.
8. A bag for your rubbish — there aren't many bins; take it back with you. It's how the beach stays the way you found it.
9. An offline map and a full battery — signal is weak at the end of the road.

🗓️ How to plan your day — Kathy's schedule

An hour's drive deserves a full day in return. Here's how I'd plan it on a weekday in June or September:

🌊 What else is nearby

Since you've got a car and you're already at the edge of Attica, it's worth combining the trip with:

• Megalo Sesi: literally next door. A bigger beach, with its small village, tavernas, and the little Transfiguration of the Saviour chapel right on the water. If Mikro Sesi is packed, you'll find room here.
• Rhamnous: an ancient fortified deme with the Temple of Nemesis, on a hillside overlooking the sea, a few kilometres south. One of the most atmospheric and least-visited ancient sites in Attica.
• Schinias: the long sandy beach with its pine forest and the Olympic Rowing Centre, on your way back — if you prefer sand to pebbles, this is the alternative.
• Marathon: the Tomb of the Marathon Warriors and the Archaeological Museum. We've covered them in detail in our Marathon–Vravrona day trip guide.
• Lake Marathon: the marble dam and the lake with the little "Mandrakaki" spot for a coffee with a view, slightly off-route if you head back via Agios Stefanos.

Frequently asked questions

Can I get to Mikro Sesi by public transport?

Realistically, no. There's no metro, tram or bus that reaches the beach itself. The nearest bus stops in Grammatiko, several kilometres before it, with infrequent departures. You need a car — your own, a rental, or a taxi booked for the whole day.

Is it an organised beach?

No. It's free and unorganised — no entrance fee, no sunbeds or umbrellas for hire. There's natural shade from the tamarisk trees, a taverna-canteen, and a lifeguard in summer.

Is it suitable for children?

Yes, with two notes: the pebbles call for water shoes, and the seabed deepens a bit faster than at the sandy Riviera beaches, so small children need supervision near the water. The clear water, the shade and the canteen's ice creams make them very happy.

Is there food at the beach?

Yes, the taverna-canteen in the middle of the beach serves coffee, drinks, snacks and proper food at very reasonable prices, during the summer season. Bring cash.

How far is it from Ioulianou 50?

About 51 kilometres — 1 hour 10 minutes with no traffic, up to 1 hour 30 on a weekend morning. The last stretch is a passable dirt track.

Is the dirt track a problem for a rental car?

No, it's short and manageable for any regular car — just take it slowly. You don't need four-wheel drive.

When is the best time to go?

On a weekday, in June or September, in the morning or late afternoon. Avoid weekends in July–August: the beach is small and gets packed. Check the wind too — a strong meltemi brings chop.

— Kathy