At a glance
🚇 Monastiraki
Line 1 from Victoria, two stops. You come out on the square.
🛍️ Sunday morning
That’s when the big flea market with the old things sets up.
🚶 2 km
From the square to the Central Market and Omonia.
👜 Pockets
Big crowds. Bag in front, zipped.
The square: five eras in a few metres
Stand in the middle of Monastiraki Square and turn slowly around. Above you is the Acropolis. At one end stands little Pantanassa, a Byzantine church. Opposite is the Tzistarakis Mosque, from the Ottoman period. Behind it rise the columns of Hadrian’s Library, from Roman Athens. And in front of you is the station, which opened in 1895 on the Athens–Piraeus line.
The square has two faces. Early in the morning it’s quiet and clean, with the light falling on the Rock. At dusk it fills with people, street musicians and sellers, and the view up to the Acropolis is the best of the day.
The station, Pantanassa, the mosque and the Rock above.
Before 8:00 the square is almost yours.
In the evening the square fills with music and people.
Photos: C messier (CC BY-SA 4.0), George E. Koronaios (CC BY-SA 4.0), Jakub Hałun (CC BY 4.0) · Wikimedia Commons
Pantanassa and the Tzistarakis Mosque
Panagia Pantanassa is all that’s left of a large monastery that once spread around it. The whole neighbourhood took its name from this “little monastery”. The church is Byzantine, most likely 10th century, and it sits lower than today’s square because the city rose around it. Look at the walls: you’ll see ancient capitals built in among the stones.
The Tzistarakis Mosque was built in 1759 by the Ottoman governor of Athens, Tzistarakis. The story goes that he burned an ancient column to make lime, and when an epidemic broke out soon after, the Athenians saw it as punishment. The governor lost his post. Today the mosque belongs to the Museum of Modern Greek Culture and houses the V. Kyriazopoulos Ceramics Collection. It closes for works from time to time, so check the museum’s website first.
The whole neighbourhood is named after its monastery.
Built into the church wall. Take a close look.
From 1759. Inside, ceramics from all over Greece.
The dome and the light from the windows.
Photos: Jakub Hałun (CC BY 4.0), George E. Koronaios (CC BY-SA 4.0), Deiadameian (CC BY-SA 4.0) · Wikimedia Commons
Under the square: the river in the metro
When they were digging for Line 3 in the late 1990s, archaeologists found the Eridanos, the river of ancient Athens, under the square. In Roman times, under Hadrian, it had been covered with a brick vault. Today you can see it inside the station, next to the stairs, together with walls and streets found in the excavations. Part of it is visible from the square too, through the protective railing. You don’t need a ticket to see it.
The river of ancient Athens, inside the station.
Walls and streets found during the Line 3 works.
Photos: George E. Koronaios (CC BY-SA 4.0), Argybz (CC BY-SA 4.0) · Wikimedia Commons
🗺️ The walk: from the square to the Central Market
This route first makes a loop around the square and the flea market, then heads up Athinas Street to the Central Market, five minutes from Omonia station.
- Monastiraki station. Before you go up, take a look at the Eridanos.
- Panagia Pantanassa. In the middle of the square. Look for the ancient pieces in the walls.
- Tzistarakis Mosque. From its portico you get the classic view up to the Acropolis.
- Hadrian’s Library. The columns are visible from Areos Street, even without a ticket. See our guide to the Library.
- Adrianou Street. A pedestrian street with cafés beside the train tracks, looking onto the Ancient Agora and the Temple of Hephaestus.
- Avyssinias Square. The junk shops, with furniture on the pavement.
- Ifestou Street. The flea market street, back towards the square.
- Varvakios Market. Walk up Athinas Street for ten minutes. Closed on Sundays. Five minutes further up is Omonia station, one stop from Victoria.
🗺️ The Monastiraki walk, stop by stop
A loop around the square, then north to the Central Market: about 2 kilometres, 40 minutes on foot without stops, two and a half to three hours with shopping and food. From there, Omonia is five minutes away, one stop from Victoria. Tap each number to see what it is.
The flea market: what you’ll find and where
The Monastiraki flea market isn’t one place, it’s a few streets, each with its own character. Ifestou Street is named after the god of smiths, and for centuries coppersmiths and blacksmiths worked here. Today it has clothes, leather goods, army surplus, vinyl and souvenirs. Avyssinias Square, at its end, is the junk dealers’ corner: furniture, lamps, frames, record players, all out on the pavement.
Old Athenians call it Yusurum, after the Jewish merchants of that name who opened the first second-hand shops here. The Sunday market has been held since 1912. For the liveliest scene, come on a Sunday morning, when the stalls spill into the side streets too. On weekdays the shops are open, but with fewer stalls.
To the east, Pandrosou Street leads to Plaka with sandals, evil-eye charms and magnets. It’s handy for gifts, but most of it is mass-produced. For good sandals, ask where they’re made and feel the leather in your hands.
Stalls, crowds and haggling under the trees.
Lamps, pots, frames. Browse at your own pace.
The main flea market street. Clothes, leather, boots.
Old furniture on the pavement, all week long.
Coins, cards, frames. Ask the price before you look too excited.
Photos: Gveret Tered (CC BY-SA 4.0), C messier (CC BY-SA 4.0), Badseed (CC BY-SA 3.0) · Wikimedia Commons
How to shop without getting fooled
- Haggling: at the stalls with old things it’s part of the game. In shops with fixed prices, only if you’re buying several pieces.
- “Antiques”: genuine antiquities can’t be sold legally on the street. Anything offered to you as ancient is a copy, and that’s how you should pay for it.
- Silver: look for the 925 stamp. The price depends on weight and workmanship.
- Worry beads: amber, horn and wood are priced very differently. Specialist shops explain what they sell.
- Olive oil, honey, mastic: best from specialist shops, with a label and a producer. If you’re flying with hand luggage only, watch the liquids rule.
The Varvakios: the city’s market
Ten minutes north, on Athinas Street, the picture changes completely. The Varvakios Market, the Central Market of Athens, has been running since 1886, and Athenians and restaurant cooks shop here. Under the iron roof is the meat market, across from it the fish market, and all around spice shops, cheese shops and olive sellers. Come in the morning, because after midday the stalls start packing up. It’s closed on Sundays and public holidays.
The Central Market of Athens, since 1886.
Shouts, stalls and the iron roof.
This is where the city shops, not the tourists.
Photos: C messier (CC BY-SA 4.0), Herbert Ortner (CC BY 4.0) · Wikimedia Commons
Food in Monastiraki
On the corner of the square and Mitropoleos Street are the best-known souvlaki places in Athens. Bairaktaris dates back to 1879, Thanasis has been known for its kebab since the 1960s, and Savvas, a little further along Ermou, stays open late. They’re full of tourists, but quick and good. For more, see our guide to souvlaki.
There are also rooftops around the square with views of the Acropolis. There you mostly pay for the view, so check the menu before you sit down. For quieter food, head north to Psyrri, two minutes from the square.
Pickpockets: what to watch for
Monastiraki is one of the spots in Athens with the most petty theft, because of the crowds, the narrow streets and the station. There’s no need to be afraid. Just don’t give anyone a chance:
- Wallet in a front pocket or a zipped bag.
- Bag in front of your body, especially on the metro and on Sunday at the flea market.
- Phone not left on the café table.
- If someone hands you a “free” bracelet or asks you to sign something, walk on without a word.
Most visitors get through without any trouble. Just keep your things close.
Monastiraki in the evening
When the shops close, Pandrosou and Ifestou empty out, but the square and Adrianou Street fill up. The rooftop bars light up, and the Acropolis is lit above you. If you want to carry on into the night, Psyrri is to the north and Plaka to the south, both five minutes away.
The souvenir street, after the shops have closed.
Photo: George E. Koronaios (CC BY-SA 4.0) · Wikimedia Commons
Practical tips
- Best times: 8:00–10:00 for a quiet square and photos, Sunday 8:00–13:00 for the flea market, dusk for the view.
- Varvakios: Monday to Saturday, from early morning until the afternoon. The stalls empty after midday.
- Tzistarakis Mosque: tickets at the museum entrance on Areos Street. Check first that it’s open.
- Wheelchair: the square and Ermou Street are flat. The flea market has narrow pavements and stalls.
🚇 How to get there from Ioulianou 50
- Ioulianou 50 → Victoria station: 3 minutes on foot.
- Line 1 (green), towards Piraeus: Omonia, and at the second stop get off at Monastiraki.
- Monastiraki: the exit takes you straight out onto the square.
For the way back: if you finish the walk at the Central Market, walk to Omonia and take Line 1 one stop to Victoria. From Monastiraki to Ioulianou on foot it’s about 25 minutes, up Athinas Street.
🚇 Ioulianou 50 → Monastiraki by metro
Line 1 to Monastiraki, no change. You come out right on the square.
Where it is in relation to the apartment
📍 From Angels Athens to the «Monastiraki» neighbourhood
See at a glance how to get from the apartment at Ioulianou 50 to the heart of the neighbourhood. Drag the map and zoom in for details.
Frequently asked questions
Which day is the flea market?
The shops are open all week. The big flea market with old things sets up on Sunday morning, around Avyssinias Square.
Is it safe?
Yes. All you need is care with your pockets, on the metro and in the flea market crowds.
How much time does it take?
An hour for the square and the flea market, two and a half to three hours if you do the whole walk to the Central Market and eat somewhere.
Do I have to pay to see the Eridanos?
No. You can see it inside the metro station and, partly, from the square.
— Kathy
