🪪 The island at a glance
📍 Where it is
Halki lies in the Dodecanese, a few kilometres off the west coast of Rhodes. The easiest way is via Rhodes: you fly from Athens in about an hour, and from Kamiros Skala, on the west coast of Rhodes, a small boat takes you to Emporio in about an hour. There are also ferries from Rhodes town and, less often, from Piraeus.
📍 Where Halki is
Halki is in the Dodecanese, a few kilometres west of Rhodes. The island is in red, and in green are Athens airport and Kamiros Skala on Rhodes, where the small boat leaves from.
🗺️ The map of the island
Halki is dry and mountainous, with only one village lived in all year round, Emporio, around the harbour. From there a road climbs west to the old Chorio, below the castle, and continues to the monastery of Agios Ioannis Alargas. The beaches are close to Emporio, and the more remote coves can be reached by boat or on foot. To the east lies uninhabited Alimia.
🗺️ Map of Halki
Halki is small and long, with Emporio, the port, on the east side. A road climbs west to Chorio and the castle, and continues to the monastery of Agios Ioannis. The beaches are around Emporio, and to the east, in green, is Alimia. Tap each number to see what it is.
Map: Marco Boschini (Public domain) · Wikimedia Commons
⚖️ Is it worth it? The pros and cons
Halki is for those who want peace, a beautiful harbour and clear sea, not organised beaches. Here is an honest picture.
📊 At a glance, from 1 to 5
👍 The pros
- One of the most beautiful harbours in the Dodecanese.
- Complete peace, with almost no cars.
- Crystal-clear water in small coves.
- An easy trip from Rhodes.
- Footpaths to the castle and the monasteries.
👎 The cons
- Few sandy beaches, most are pebbles.
- The island is dry, with little shade.
- Few places to stay, book early.
- Very quiet in the evening, with almost no nightlife.
⚓ Emporio
Emporio is the port and the only village on the island lived in all year round. Around the bay stand neoclassical mansions painted ochre, pink, light blue and yellow, many from the years when Halki lived from sponge diving. Many sponge divers emigrated to Florida, and the island’s road was built with their money. On the waterfront are the tavernas, the cafés and the clock tower, and high above stand the ruined windmills.
Above the harbour stands Agios Nikolaos, built in 1861, with a tall stone bell tower and a courtyard paved with votsalotó, a mosaic of black and white pebbles. Emporio has no cars on the waterfront, and in the evening people sit outside until late.
Mansions in ochre and sky blue.
Houses one on top of the other.
Above the village.
This is where the ships arrive.
Three windmills above the harbour.
Stone and sea.
Fishing boats in the harbour.
The clock tower.
Shade and coffee.
The bell tower, above the harbour.
A mosaic made of pebbles.
Emporio in the evening.
Photos: Nancy1008 (CC BY-SA 4.0), Nikolay Maksimovich (CC BY 3.0), Oliver H (CC BY-SA 3.0), Konstglou (Attribution), Homo soveticus (CC BY-SA 3.0) · Wikimedia Commons
🏰 Chorio and the castle
About three kilometres west, on the mountainside, lies Chorio, the old capital, built high up for protection from pirates. Today it is almost abandoned, with roofless stone houses and a church that opens on feast days. From there a path climbs to the castle of the Knights of Saint John, built on the ancient acropolis, with views over the whole of Halki, Rhodes and the islets around it.
At the western tip of the island, after a long road through dry countryside, lies the monastery of Agios Ioannis Alargas, with a large courtyard shaded by cypresses. At its feast, at the end of August, the whole island gathers here.
The road to Chorio.
The view down to the sea.
Stones, olive trees and thyme.
A chapel above the sea.
From the mountain road.
Through a cave.
Photos: Homo soveticus (CC BY-SA 3.0), Paraskevik84 (CC BY-SA 2.5), Alex Birkett (CC BY-SA 2.0), Terry Wilson (CC BY-SA 2.0) · Wikimedia Commons
The road to Chorio and the castle is uphill and has no shade. Set off before nine in the morning, with a hat and water, or take a taxi to Chorio and walk the last stretch from there.
🏖️ The beaches
The nearest beach is Pondamos, about ten minutes’ walk from Emporio, the only large sandy beach on the island, with shallow water and a taverna. North of the harbour, Kania has pebbles and peace, and to the south, Ftenagia has rocks, crystal-clear water and a taverna. Trachia, in the south, is two little coves back to back, reached by a footpath. The wildest coves, such as Areta, can only be reached by boat.
East of Halki lies Alimia, an uninhabited island with an abandoned village, ruins from the Second World War and quiet coves. Small boats from Emporio run trips there in summer.
Pebbles and shade.
Calm water for a swim.
Coves reached by boat.
Cliffs and deep blue.
Around Halki.
Rocky islets with seagulls.
The harbour, from the ferry.
The dry interior.
Halki, just opposite.
Photos: Homo soveticus (CC BY-SA 3.0), Zeratul175 (CC BY-SA 4.0), Thanasis Christodoulou (CC BY-SA 4.0), L.1951a (Public domain), Nikolay Maksimovich (CC BY 3.0), V. Vlasenko (CC BY-SA 3.0) · Wikimedia Commons
- Pondamos: the only large sandy beach, next to Emporio.
- Kania: pebbles and peace, north of the harbour.
- Ftenagia: rocks and crystal-clear water, with a taverna.
- Trachia: two little coves, on foot.
- Alimia: deserted coves, by small boat.
🍽️ What to eat
In the waterfront tavernas you will eat fresh fish, octopus and squid, and in the simpler places local kid goat and home-style stews. Try the island’s thyme honey and, if you are offered them, homemade sweets. In the morning, have a coffee in the square, in the shade of the big tree.
📅 When to go
May, June and September are the best months, with a warm sea and mild heat for walking. In July it gets very hot, and in August the few places to stay fill up. In winter the island is almost empty and there are few sailings.
✈️ How to get there from Athens
| How | Duration | From | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Plane and small boat | About 1 hour to Rhodes, plus 1 hour by boat | Athens airport | From Rhodes airport to Kamiros Skala you need a taxi or a bus. |
| Ferry from Rhodes town | About 1.5 to 2 hours | Rhodes harbour | Fewer sailings, but no transfer to Kamiros needed. |
| Ferry from Piraeus | More than half a day | Piraeus | Few sailings, via other islands. |
From Ioulianou 50, Athens airport is an hour on metro Line 3. Kamiros Skala is about an hour by car from Rhodes town, so check the timetables in advance. On Halki you don’t need a car: there is a small bus, taxis and boats. Halki is easy to combine with Rhodes: see also our guide to Rhodes.
🗓️ Three days on Halki
Emporio and Pondamos
Stroll along the harbour among the mansions and walk up to Agios Nikolaos for the bell tower and the pebble mosaic. Walk to Pondamos for a swim, and in the evening have fish on the waterfront.
Chorio and the Kastro
Early in the morning, before it gets hot, go up on foot or by taxi to the abandoned Chorio and from there to the castle, for views over the whole island. On the way down, swim at Kania or Ftenagia.
Alimia
Take the small boat to Alimia, to swim in deserted coves and wander around the abandoned village. Otherwise, go as far as the monastery of Agios Ioannis Alargas, at the western tip.
Frequently asked questions
Where should I stay on Halki?
In Emporio, in one of the old mansions turned into guesthouses, with a view of the harbour. Near Pondamos, to be next to the beach. There is hardly any other option on the island.
Can I visit Halki on a day trip from Rhodes?
Yes, from Kamiros Skala. Take the morning boat, stroll around Emporio, swim at Pondamos and come back in the afternoon. A night is worth it, though, for the harbour in the evening.
Do I need a car?
No. Emporio and the nearby beaches are within walking distance, and for Chorio and the monastery there is a small bus and taxis.
How many days do I need?
Two to three days are enough for Emporio, the castle, the beaches and Alimia. More if you simply want to rest.
— Kathy
