🪪 The island at a glance
📍 Where it is
Ithaca lies in the Ionian Sea, just east of Kefalonia, separated from it by a narrow channel. It has no airport: most people fly to Kefalonia and cross over by ferry from Sami. There are also ferries from Patras and from Astakos, on the mainland opposite.
📍 Where Ithaca is
Ithaca is in the Ionian Sea, right next to Kefalonia, opposite the coast of Aetolia-Acarnania. The island is in red, and in green are Kefalonia airport and the port of Patras.
🗺️ The map of the island
Ithaca is long and narrow, almost two islands joined by a neck of land. In the southern part is Vathy, the capital, in a deep bay. The road climbs into the mountains of the middle, with views of both seas, and reaches the northern part, with Stavros, Frikes and Kioni. From Vathy to Kioni takes about half an hour by car.
🗺️ Map of Ithaca
Ithaca is two parts joined by a narrow neck. In the south are Vathy, Perachori and the beaches reached by boat. High up in the middle are Kathara Monastery and Anogi. In the northern part are Stavros, Frikes and Kioni. Tap each number to see what it is.
Map: Benedetto Bordone, 1547 (Public domain) · Wikimedia Commons
⚖️ Is it worth it? The pros and cons
Ithaca is not an island for parties or long sandy beaches. It is an island for quiet, the sea and walking. Here is an honest picture.
📊 At a glance, from 1 to 5
👍 The pros
- A green, quiet island without mass tourism.
- Vathy, Kioni and Frikes.
- Crystal-clear pebble beaches.
- Hiking on the paths of Odysseus.
- Easy to combine with Kefalonia.
👎 The cons
- No airport, you need a ferry from Kefalonia or Patras.
- The best beaches need a boat or a walk.
- Almost no nightlife.
- Few places to stay, they fill up early in August.
- Few sandy beaches, mostly pebbles.
⚓ Vathy
Vathy is built at the end of a bay so enclosed that it looks like a lake. Its houses are Ionian, with tiled roofs and colourful walls, and many were rebuilt after the great earthquake of 1953. Around the harbour there are cafés, tavernas and two small museums. In the middle of the bay is Lazaretto, an islet with a chapel, which was once a quarantine station.
Above the town, Perachori is a village among olive trees with views over the whole bay. Near Vathy there are small beaches, such as Sarakiniko, which you can reach on foot or by car.
One of the most sheltered harbours in Greece.
The town at the end of the bay.
The islet with the chapel.
The square of Vathy.
As Edward Lear painted it.
A village with views above Vathy.
Photos: auteur (CC BY-SA 2.0), Daniel Eriksson (CC BY 4.0), Saltmarsh (CC0), Liilia Moroz (CC BY-SA 4.0), Edward Lear (Public domain), Jarmila Book (CC BY-SA 4.0) · Wikimedia Commons
In summer, boats leave every morning from the harbour of Vathy for beaches such as Gidaki, which have no road. Bring water and shade, because there are usually no snack bars.
⛪ Kathara Monastery and Anogi
The road to the north climbs high. Near the top of the mountain is Kathara Monastery, an old monastery with views over the whole bay of Vathy and as far as the mainland opposite. A little higher, Anogi is the island's old mountain village, with stone houses, a church with frescoes and huge rocks around it.
A monastery high on the mountain.
The whole bay from above.
Photos: Cosal (CC BY-SA 4.0) · Wikimedia Commons
🌿 The north: Stavros, Frikes and Kioni
Stavros is the largest village in the north, with a square where the bust of Odysseus stands. Nearby are the bay of Polis and archaeological sites linked to Homer's Ithaca, as well as a small archaeological museum.
Frikes is a fishing village with tavernas on the water. From there, a coastal road leads to Kioni, perhaps the most beautiful spot on the island: Ionian houses around a small harbour, sailing boats and three old windmills at the entrance to the bay. To the west, the bay of Afales is wild and quiet.
The prettiest little harbour on the island.
Tavernas right on the harbour.
Three windmills at the entrance to the bay.
A fishing village in the north.
Tavernas next to the boats.
The king of Ithaca in the square.
The strait between the two islands.
Photos: Michael Paraskevas (CC BY-SA 3.0), 7777777kz (CC BY 3.0), Ilkka Simomaa (CC BY 4.0), Jarmila Book (CC BY-SA 4.0), Jean Housen (CC BY-SA 3.0), Deiadameian (CC BY-SA 4.0), Antonis Kossyvas (CC BY-SA 4.0) · Wikimedia Commons
🏖️ The beaches
- Gidaki: white pebbles and turquoise water, by boat or on foot.
- Filiatro: pebbles in a green bay, near Vathy.
- Sarakiniko: a small beach close to town.
- Polis: a pebbly bay near Stavros.
- Afales: a wild bay in the north.
- Kioni: small beaches near the harbour.
Ithaca has waymarked paths between the villages, with pine trees, olive groves and sea views. Spring and September are the best seasons for hiking.
🍽️ What to eat
Try Ithaca's rovani, a traditional sweet made with rice and honey, fish at the tavernas of Kioni and Frikes, and wine from the vineyards of Kefalonia opposite. In the tavernas you will find Ionian dishes such as meat pie and savoro, fried fish with vinegar and rosemary.
📅 When to go
The best time is May, June and September: warm sea, green nature and quiet harbours. In July and August many sailing boats arrive and accommodation fills up, so book early. Out of season, many tavernas close.
✈️ How to get there from Athens
| How | Duration | From | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Plane and ferry | About a 1-hour flight and 30 minutes by ferry | Athens airport | Fly to Kefalonia, then drive to Sami and take the ferry to Ithaca. |
| Bus and ferry | About 6–7 hours | Kifissos bus station | Bus to Patras or Kefalonia and ferry to Ithaca. |
From Ioulianou 50, take Line 1 to Monastiraki and change to Line 3 for the airport. For the buses, Kifissos station is a few minutes away by taxi. To compare ferry and plane, see our guide to ferry or plane.
🗓️ Four days on Ithaca
Vathy
A walk around the harbour, coffee in the square and a swim at Sarakiniko. In the afternoon go up to Perachori for the view.
The mountains
Climb to Kathara Monastery and Anogi. Then down to Stavros and the bay of Polis.
The north
Morning in Frikes, a walk to Kioni and the windmills, and a meal at the little harbour of Kioni.
Beaches by boat
A boat from Vathy to Gidaki or Filiatro, and sunset in the harbour.
Frequently asked questions
Where should I stay on Ithaca?
In Vathy, for the restaurants, the boats and harbour life. In Kioni or Frikes, for quiet and the sea in the north.
Do I need a car?
Yes, if you want to see the whole island. Buses are few. For the beaches near Vathy, your feet and the boats are enough.
Can I combine Ithaca with Kefalonia?
Yes. It is very easy, with ferries every day from Sami. See our guide to Kefalonia.
How many days do I need?
Three to four days for Vathy, the north and a few beaches. For hiking and rest, a week.
— Kathy
