🪪 The island at a glance
📍 Where it is
Delos lies in the Cyclades, two kilometres west of Mykonos, next to the larger Rhenia. It has no village, no hotels and no airport, and you are not allowed to stay overnight. You arrive on the boats that leave every morning from the old port of Mykonos and return in the afternoon, or on organised trips from Naxos and Paros. From Athens, you first go to Mykonos, by plane or by ferry from Piraeus and Rafina.
📍 Where Delos is
Delos lies in the centre of the Cyclades, two kilometres from the west coast of Mykonos. In red is the island, and in green Piraeus, Rafina, Athens airport and Mykonos, where you arrive from.
🗺️ The map
Delos is about five kilometres long and a little over one wide. The boats moor on the west coast, next to the ancient harbour. North of the jetty stretches the Sanctuary of Apollo, with its temples, its stoas and the Terrace of the Lions, and a little further east the museum. To the south is the theatre quarter, with houses, alleys and the ancient theatre. Behind it rises Mount Kynthos, the island’s hill, with views over all the Cyclades.
🗺️ The map of the archaeological site
Delos is long and narrow, and most of the monuments are on the west coast, around the harbour. North of the jetty are the Sanctuary of Apollo, the Terrace of the Lions and the museum. To the south, the theatre quarter with the houses. To the east, the hill of Mount Kynthos. Tap each number to see what it is.
Map: Vincenzo Coronelli, 17th century (Public domain) · Wikimedia Commons
⚖️ Is it worth it? The pros and cons
Delos is worth it for anyone in Mykonos, even if you are not especially interested in antiquities: it is rare to walk through an entire ancient city. But it needs preparation, because it is a dry island without shade, and your time is limited. Here is an honest picture.
📊 At a glance, from 1 to 5
👍 The pros
- An entire ancient city, with streets, houses, temples and a theatre.
- The marble lions and the mosaics of the houses.
- The view from Mount Kynthos over all the Cyclades.
- An easy half day from Mykonos, with a boat every morning.
- One of the most important sanctuaries of the ancient world.
👎 The cons
- Almost no shade, very hot in summer.
- Your time is set by the return boat.
- Very few options for food and water.
- Swimming and overnight stays are not allowed.
🏛️ The myth and the history
According to myth, Leto, pursued by Hera, could find nowhere to give birth, until a rocky islet floating in the Aegean took her in. There Apollo and Artemis were born, and the island stood still and was named Delos, the “visible one”. From the 7th century BC it became the great sanctuary of the Ionians, with festivals, games and offerings from all over the Greek world. The Athenians “purified” it in 426 BC: from then on, nobody was allowed to be born or to die on the island.
In the 2nd century BC the Romans made Delos a free port, and within a few decades it became one of the largest trading centres in the Mediterranean, with merchants from Italy, Egypt and Syria, rich houses and temples for foreign gods. In 88 BC it was plundered by the troops of Mithridates, and a few years later by pirates. The city never recovered, and the island was deserted. The excavations of the French School of Archaeology, since 1873, brought to light what you see today.
The whole ancient city in front of you.
This is where the ships of antiquity moored.
Marble everywhere.
This is where the heart of trade beat.
Two-storey houses.
Mount Kynthos rises above the island.
Delos and Rhenia.
Photos: Charles Haynes (CC BY-SA 2.0), Olaf Tausch (CC BY 3.0), ftrc (CC BY-SA 2.0), Zde (CC BY-SA 4.0), Lydia.comstock (CC BY-SA 4.0), Joanbanjo (CC BY-SA 3.0) · Wikimedia Commons
There is no shade on Delos. Wear a hat and closed shoes, and take plenty of water and something to eat. Check the opening hours of the site and the boat times on the day itself, because they change with the season.
🦁 The Sanctuary, the Lions and the houses
From the harbour, the Sacred Way leads you between stoas and markets to the Sanctuary of Apollo, with the foundations of three temples and dozens of statue bases. A little further north, next to the Sacred Lake, now dried up, stands the Terrace of the Lions: marble lions dedicated by the Naxians in the 7th century BC, sitting in a row and facing the lake. There were originally about twelve. The ones you see outside are copies, and the originals are protected inside the museum.
South of the harbour, the theatre quarter is the liveliest place on the island: paved alleys, two-storey houses with courtyards, cisterns for rainwater. In the House of Dionysos you will see a mosaic of the god riding a panther, and in the House of the Dolphins dolphins ridden by cupids. At the end of the street is the theatre, for about six thousand spectators, with the large cistern at its foot.
Guardians of the sanctuary since the 7th century BC.
The originals are in the museum.
The courtyard with the columns.
A mosaic in the middle of the courtyard.
A mosaic at the entrance of the house.
Streets as they were two thousand years ago.
As far as Mount Kynthos.
Get lost in the alleys.
Photos: User:Ggia (CC BY-SA 3.0), Holger Uwe Schmitt (CC BY-SA 4.0), Olaf Tausch (CC BY 3.0, Public domain), Zde (CC BY-SA 4.0), ftrc (CC BY-SA 2.0) · Wikimedia Commons
⛰️ Mount Kynthos and the museum
Mount Kynthos is only 112 metres high, but from its summit you can see all of Delos, Rhenia, Mykonos, Tinos, Naxos, Paros and Syros, the islands that “circle” the sanctuary and gave their name to the Cyclades. The path is stony, with steps, and you climb it in twenty minutes. On the way you pass the sanctuary of the foreign gods, with the small temple of Isis, and at the summit are the foundations of the sanctuary of Zeus and Athena.
The museum of Delos is small, but it holds the original lions, statues, mosaics, wall paintings from the houses and objects of everyday life. It is also the only place with shade and cool air: ideal for midday.
All of Delos from above.
The temple of Isis on the slope.
The path to the summit.
The Cyclades all around you.
The city spreads down to the sea.
Quiet, away from the crowds.
Flowers among the marble.
Photos: Zde (CC BY-SA 4.0), Olaf Tausch (CC BY 3.0), Institute for the Study of the Ancient World (CC BY 2.0), Elisa Triolo (CC BY-SA 2.0), Joanbanjo (CC BY-SA 3.0) · Wikimedia Commons
On Delos you cannot stay overnight, swim, climb on the monuments or take anything with you, not even a stone. Stay on the marked paths, because many spots are fragile.
🍽️ What to eat
On Delos there is only a small snack bar near the museum, with water, coffee and simple food. Bring water and snacks from Mykonos. The real eating happens in the evening, in Mykonos: fish in Little Venice, kopanisti cheese, louza cured pork, onion pie and almond sweets.
📅 When to go
April, May, September and October are the best months: a gentle sun, fewer people, and in spring flowers among the marble. In July and August take the first boat, because at midday the heat is very strong. With a strong meltemi wind, sailings may be cancelled, and in winter they become fewer.
⛴️ How to get there from Athens
| How | Duration | From | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Plane | About 40 minutes + 30 minutes | Athens airport → Mykonos → Delos | The fastest way. |
| Ferry | 2.5 to 5 hours + 30 minutes | Piraeus or Rafina → Mykonos | From Rafina the journey is shorter. |
| Boat | About 30 minutes | Old port of Mykonos → Delos | Every morning, return in the afternoon. |
From Ioulianou 50 go straight to Piraeus on Line 1, or to the airport on Line 1 to Monastiraki and change to Line 3. For Rafina there is a bus from Pedion tou Areos. For your base, see our guide to Mykonos.
🗓️ A day on Delos
The boat and the Sanctuary
Take the first boat from the old port of Mykonos. On arrival, follow the Sacred Way to the Sanctuary of Apollo and the Terrace of the Lions, before the heat sets in.
The museum and the houses
See the original lions and the finds in the museum, in the shade. Then go south to the theatre quarter, the House of Dionysos and the House of the Dolphins, and on to the theatre.
Mount Kynthos and the return
Climb Mount Kynthos for the view, in twenty minutes, and walk back down at your leisure to the jetty. Back to Mykonos on the last boat, for the sunset in Little Venice.
Frequently asked questions
How much time do I need on Delos?
At least three hours for the Sanctuary, the houses and the museum, and one more if you want to climb Mount Kynthos. The boats usually give you three to four hours on the island.
Can I stay on Delos or swim?
No. Delos is an archaeological site: overnight stays are not allowed, nor is swimming off its shores. For the sea, stay in Mykonos.
Is a guided tour worth it?
Yes, if it is your first time. There are many ruins, and without an explanation it is hard to understand what you are looking at. Guided tours are offered with the boat ticket, or take a good guidebook.
Is it suitable for children?
For older children, yes: the lions, the mosaics and the climb up Mount Kynthos thrill them. With small children, go early in the morning, because the heat and the lack of shade are tiring.
— Kathy
