🪪 The island at a glance
📍 Where it is
Syros lies in the centre of the Cyclades, between Tinos, Mykonos, Paros and Kythnos. It is a small island, but Ermoupoli is the capital of the Cyclades and one of the biggest ports in the Aegean. Ferries leave every day from Piraeus and Rafina, and from here you can easily continue to other islands.
📍 Where Syros is
Syros is in the centre of the Cyclades, between Tinos, Mykonos, Paros and Kythnos. The island is in red, and in green are Piraeus, where the ferry leaves from, and Athens airport.
🗺️ The map of the island
Syros is long and narrow, less than 20 kilometres from north to south. Almost all life is in the southern half: Ermoupoli on the east coast, with villages and beaches around it, linked by bus. The north is wild, with few roads. Distances are short: from Ermoupoli to Galissas takes about 15 minutes.
🗺️ Map of Syros
Ermoupoli and Ano Syros are on the east coast, with the airport a little further south. Galissas and Kini are in the west, Finikas, Posidonia and Agathopes in the south, and Vari and Azolimnos in the south-east. The north is wild. Tap each number to see what it is.
Map: Piri Reis, Walters Art Museum (Public domain) · Wikimedia Commons
⚖️ Is it worth it? The pros and cons
Syros is not the island of white houses and windmills. It is an island with a town, history and good food. Here is an honest picture.
📊 At a glance, from 1 to 5
👍 The pros
- A real town that lives all year round.
- Neoclassical Ermoupoli and medieval Ano Syros.
- Close to Piraeus, with ferries every day.
- Short distances, even by bus.
- Loukoumi, halvadopita and good food.
👎 The cons
- A less “Cycladic” look than other islands.
- The beaches are good, not the most beautiful in the Cyclades.
- Few flights and a small airport.
- The meltemi wind in August.
- The north is wild, with few roads.
🏛️ Ermoupoli
Ermoupoli was built during the War of Independence of 1821 by refugees from Chios, Psara and other places, and in the 19th century it was the biggest port in Greece, before Piraeus. From that time come the neoclassical mansions, the marble streets and Miaoulis Square, a large marble square with cafés, in front of the Town Hall by Ernst Ziller.
A little higher up is the Apollo Theatre, from 1864, modelled on La Scala in Milan, where opera is performed every summer. In Vaporia, the captains' quarter, the mansions stand on the rocks, and from the steps of Asteria you can swim right in town. Above Vaporia rises Agios Nikolaos with its blue dome.
The town climbs two hills.
A marble square with the Town Hall.
The heart of town after sunset.
A small La Scala of Milan.
Portraits of composers and poets.
Captains' mansions on the water.
The blue dome of Vaporia.
Photos: Apapapapa (Public domain), Zacharias Mitzelos (CC0), FocalPoint (CC BY-SA 4.0), Iantomferry (CC BY 3.0), G Da (CC BY-SA 3.0), Hans Peter Schaefer (CC BY-SA 3.0) · Wikimedia Commons
The Apollo Theatre is usually open for visits in the morning. If you go in summer, check the programme: a performance here stays with you forever.
⛪ Ano Syros and Anastasi
Above Ermoupoli, on one hill, is Ano Syros, the medieval settlement built by the Venetians in the 13th century. It is white, with narrow alleys and steps, and most of its residents are Catholic. At the top is the Catholic church of Saint George, “San Tzortzis”, with a view over the whole town and harbour. This is where Markos Vamvakaris, the great rebetiko musician, was born.
On the other hill is the Orthodox church of the Resurrection (Anastasi), with the widest view on the island, as far as Tinos and Mykonos. The two hills, Catholic and Orthodox, are the best-known image of Syros. You can walk up from town, but there are many steps, so in summer go early or take a taxi up and walk down.
Ano Syros on the left, Anastasi on the right.
Ermoupoli and the harbour from above.
Narrow alleys with steps everywhere.
A medieval settlement, white and blue.
The Catholic church at the top.
The Orthodox church on the other hill.
The two hills lit up.
Photos: Hans Peter Schaefer (CC BY-SA 3.0), Sgroey (CC BY-SA 4.0), Georgina tsaga (CC BY-SA 4.0), Jean Housen (CC BY-SA 4.0), NNeilAlieNN (CC BY-SA 3.0) · Wikimedia Commons
🌅 The west coast
The west coast faces the sunset. Galissas has a long sandy beach in a sheltered bay, with tavernas and rooms. A little further north, Kini is a fishing village with a sandy beach and shallow water, and its tavernas are among the favourite places for sunset and fish.
A sandy beach in a sheltered bay.
The west coast faces the sunset.
A fishing village with a sandy beach.
Shallow water and tavernas on the sand.
Photos: Olavfin (Public domain), FocalPoint (CC BY-SA 4.0) · Wikimedia Commons
🏖️ The south and the seaside villages
Most of the beaches are in the south. Finikas has a bay with sailing boats and clear water, and Posidonia, or Dellagrazia, has old villas where the wealthy families of Ermoupoli spent their holidays. Agathopes is a sandy beach with shallow water, good for children.
In the south-east, Vari has a quiet bay, and Azolimnos is a small seaside village, a few minutes from town. In the wild north, Grammata beach can only be reached by boat, and its rocks carry inscriptions by sailors from antiquity. Nearby, at Kastri above Chalandriani, is one of the oldest settlements in the Cyclades.
A bay with sailing boats.
Clear water and rocks.
Old villas of Ermoupoli.
A sandy beach with shallow water.
A quiet bay on the east coast.
A seaside village close to town.
Photos: Sgroey (CC BY-SA 4.0), stefanouG (Public domain), FocalPoint (CC BY-SA 4.0), M. Roussa (CC BY 3.0 GR) · Wikimedia Commons
🏖️ The beaches
- Galissas: a long sandy beach in a sheltered bay.
- Kini: a sandy beach with tavernas and sunset.
- Agathopes: a sandy beach with shallow water, good for children.
- Finikas: clear water in a bay with sailing boats.
- Vari: a quiet bay with a sandy beach.
- Asteria: swimming from the steps, right in Ermoupoli.
- Grammata: a wild beach in the north, by boat only.
Buses leave from the harbour of Ermoupoli and go to most beaches in the south and west. If you want to see the north, rent a car for a day.
🍽️ What to eat
Syros is known for loukoumi and halvadopita, which you will find in every pastry shop in Ermoupoli. Try San Michali, a hard, sharp cheese from the island, Syros sausages and capers. In the tavernas of Ano Syros you will often hear rebetiko too.
📅 When to go
The best time is May, June and September: warm sea and fewer people. In July and August the island fills up, mostly with Greeks, and the meltemi blows. Ermoupoli lives all year round, with a university and people, so Syros is one of the best islands for an off-season trip.
✈️ How to get there from Athens
| How | Duration | From | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Ferry | About 2–4 hours | Piraeus or Rafina | Ferries every day, all year. Arrives in the harbour of Ermoupoli. |
| Plane | About 35 minutes | Athens airport | Few flights, on small planes. The airport is just outside town. |
From Ioulianou 50, take Line 1 straight to the port of Piraeus. For the airport, take Line 1 to Monastiraki and change to Line 3. To compare ferry and plane, see our guide to ferry or plane.
🗓️ Four days on Syros
Ermoupoli
Morning at Miaoulis Square and the Apollo Theatre. A walk through Vaporia to Agios Nikolaos and a swim from the steps of Asteria.
Ano Syros and Anastasi
Climb to Ano Syros and San Tzortzis. In the afternoon go to Anastasi for the view, and have dinner in Ano Syros.
The west coast
Swim at Galissas and Kini, and watch the sunset over fish at the tavernas of Kini.
The south
Finikas, Posidonia and Agathopes. In the afternoon Vari or Azolimnos, then back to town.
Frequently asked questions
Where should I stay on Syros?
In Ermoupoli, for the town, the food and the buses. In Galissas, Kini or Finikas, if you want to be by the sea. Distances are short, so wherever you stay, you can see everything.
Can I combine Syros with other islands?
Yes. Ferries go from Syros to Tinos, Mykonos, Paros and Naxos, often in less than an hour. It is a good start for island hopping.
Is Syros good for children?
Yes. Agathopes, Galissas and Kini have shallow water, and the town has squares, ice cream and loukoumi.
How many days do I need?
Three days for Ermoupoli, Ano Syros and a few beaches. With four or five days you can see everything at your own pace.
— Kathy
