🪪 The island at a glance
📍 Where it is
Schinoussa lies in the Small Cyclades, south of Naxos, between Iraklia and Koufonisia. Ferries from Piraeus take 6 to 8 hours, via Naxos. From Naxos there are also the smaller boats of the Small Cyclades, which link the island with Koufonisia in about half an hour.
📍 Where Schinoussa is
Schinoussa lies in the Small Cyclades, south of Naxos, between Iraklia and Koufonisia. The island is shown in red, and in green Piraeus, Naxos and Koufonisia, where the boats come from.
🗺️ The map of the island
Schinoussa is small and low, with gentle hills, dry-stone walls and many coves. The harbour, Mersini, is on the west coast, and a road climbs in a few minutes to Chora, the main village. Further north is Messaria, and footpaths and dirt roads lead from there to all the beaches.
🗺️ Map of Schinoussa
Schinoussa is small and low. The harbour, Mersini, is on the west coast, and Chora a little higher up, in the middle of the island, with Messaria further north. In the south are Tsigouri, Livadi, Lioliou and Almyros, to the east Fountana and Psili Ammos, and in the north Fykio and Gerolimnionas. Tap each number to see what it is.
Map: Benedetto Bordone (Public domain) · Wikimedia Commons
⚖️ Is it worth it? The pros and cons
Schinoussa is for people who want sandy beaches, peace and a simple life. Here is an honest picture.
📊 At a glance, from 1 to 5
👍 The pros
- More than ten sandy beaches on a very small island.
- Everything is close, and much of it within walking distance.
- A quiet Chora with a few good tavernas.
- Easy island hopping with Koufonisia and Iraklia.
- Ideal for families and couples.
👎 The cons
- Few sights apart from the beaches.
- Few ferries, especially outside summer.
- Very little shade on most beaches.
- Few rooms in August.
🏘️ Chora and Messaria
Chora, which locals also call Panagia, stretches along a main street with white houses, tavernas, a bakery and a mini market. In the middle stands the church of Panagia Akathi, with its blue dome. At the edge of the village, an old windmill and a chapel look across to Naxos.
A little further north, Messaria is a small village with stone walls, gardens and a tall bell tower. The island takes its name from the schinos, the mastic shrub with red berries that grows everywhere.
The main street.
Chairs in the lane.
The village church.
White and blue.
A quiet midday.
Naxos on the horizon.
Islets in the open sea.
The other village.
Above Messaria.
Fields down to the sea.
Towards the beaches.
Decorated for the feast day.
Photos: Zde (CC BY-SA 3.0), Pbelogiannis (CC BY-SA 3.0), Efi Golia (Public domain), Oro2 (CC BY-SA 3.0), E. Makri (Public domain), Evrydiki (CC BY-SA 4.0) · Wikimedia Commons
⚓ Mersini
Mersini is the island’s small harbour, in a sheltered bay with fishing boats, sailing boats and a taverna by the water. This is where the boats from Naxos and the other islets dock, and where the small boats leave for trips around the island.
Mersini from above.
Boats in the harbour.
A celebration in Mersini.
Arriving on the island.
Naxos across the water.
Photos: Charles Haynes (CC BY-SA 2.0), Zde (CC BY-SA 3.0), Zde (CC BY-SA 4.0) · Wikimedia Commons
🏖️ The beaches
Schinoussa has more than ten sandy beaches, almost all with clear, shallow water. Below Chora, Tsigouri is the best known, with a taverna and umbrellas, and next to it Livadi, with tamarisks. Further east are quiet Lioliou and Almyros, with a taverna. To the north-east, Psili Ammos is reached by footpath, and in the north Fykio and Gerolimnionas are quiet coves.
- Tsigouri: sand, a taverna and umbrellas, near Chora.
- Livadi: a sandy beach with tamarisks for shade.
- Lioliou and Almyros: quiet sandy beaches in the south.
- Psili Ammos: fine sand, reached by footpath.
- Fykio and Gerolimnionas: coves in the north.
The best-known beach.
Sea daffodils on the sand.
A swim next to the harbour.
Clear water.
Sand and waves.
Ideal for children.
Trees above the sand.
Terraces down to the water.
For snorkelling and diving.
By boat around the island.
The colour of the water.
Anchored in the bay.
Photos: Kyriaki Tripolitsioti (CC BY-SA 4.0), Evrydiki (CC BY-SA 4.0), Oro2 (CC BY-SA 3.0) · Wikimedia Commons
In summer, small boats from Mersini sail around Schinoussa, stopping at caves and coves you cannot reach on foot. Some continue to Koufonisia or Iraklia. Ask at the harbour for the day’s schedule.
🌿 Nature and history
The hills of Schinoussa are covered in mastic shrubs, thyme and dry-stone walls, and the footpaths link the villages with all the beaches. The island has been inhabited since prehistory: marble figurines and vessels from the Early Cycladic period were found here, and today they are on display at the Museum of Cycladic Art in Athens. On full-moon nights, the light spreads across the whole sea.
The plant that gave the island its name.
At anchor in the Small Cyclades.
Golden light on the hills.
Night on Schinoussa.
Found on Schinoussa.
Early Cycladic art.
Photos: Kyriaki Tripolitsioti (CC BY-SA 4.0), Oro2 (CC BY-SA 3.0), Vicky_dm (Public domain), Zde (CC BY-SA 3.0), Zde (CC BY-SA 4.0) · Wikimedia Commons
🍽️ What to eat
The tavernas in Chora and on the beaches cook with local produce: fresh fish, kid goat, fava, local cheese and vegetables from the island’s gardens. Try the catch of the day in Mersini and an ouzo with a meze in the afternoon in Chora.
📅 When to go
June and September are the best months, with warm sea and few people. In August the island fills up and rooms are booked early. May and October are quiet and ideal for walking.
✈️ How to get there from Athens
| How | Duration | From | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Ferry from Piraeus | About 6 to 8 hours | Piraeus | Via Paros and Naxos, a few sailings a week. |
| Plane and ferry | About 45 minutes to Naxos, plus 1 to 2 hours by ferry | Athens airport | Fly to Naxos and take a ferry to Schinoussa. |
From Ioulianou 50, Piraeus is about 40 minutes by metro and the airport one hour on Line 3. Check the timetables in advance, as ferries are few. On the island a small bus links the harbour with Chora, and you do the rest on foot. Before you leave Athens, it is worth visiting the Museum of Cycladic Art, to see the finds from the island.
🗓️ Three days on Schinoussa
Chora and Tsigouri
Walk up from the harbour to Chora, stroll along the main street to the Panagia church and go down for a swim at Tsigouri. In the evening, dinner at a taverna in Chora.
The beaches of the south
Walk from Chora to Livadi, with its tamarisks, and continue to Lioliou and Almyros. Lunch at the taverna in Almyros and back in the afternoon.
Messaria and Psili Ammos
Pass through Messaria and take the footpath to Psili Ammos, one of the finest sandy beaches on the island. In the afternoon, take a boat trip around the island to see the caves and coves.
Frequently asked questions
Do I need a car on Schinoussa?
No. The island is very small, and from Chora you can walk to almost any beach in 10 to 30 minutes. A small bus runs between the harbour, Chora and Tsigouri.
Where should I stay on Schinoussa?
In Chora, so you are in the middle of the island, close to tavernas and beaches. In Mersini, if you want to be next to the harbour.
Can I combine Schinoussa with other islands?
Yes, easily. The same boats call at Iraklia, Koufonisia, Donousa and Naxos, so you can island-hop with a few days on each island.
How many days do I need?
Three to four days are enough for most of the beaches. A week if you only want rest and swimming.
— Kathy
